Fishing Tackle Box

When you take a fishing trip, there is always a lot of equipment that you need to remember to take with you. However, if you are going to head out to the coastline or the open waters of one of the oceans or seas that border North America, the most important part of the equipment to consider is the saltwater fishing tackle. Often, this is the most crucial part of assuring that you have a successful journey – your equipment must be in good, working order and must be durable enough to assist you in reeling in even the biggest possible catches you could locate on the open waters.

When inspecting your tackle prior to setting out for your adventure, you should check several different pieces of equipment. The road is probably the most important feature of your tackle and should be in good working order. Some of the worst disasters are caused by having roller guides that stop rolling, flimsy guides that fold over or shatter, and reels that jerk free from broken reel seats. Gimbles and grips can come unglued, and tip tops can fall off in a cast. All of these problems lead to blaming saltwater fishing tackle for a lost catch.

One great thing about the rod is that it is usually inexpensive, and you can get a high-quality rod that is good for a lifetime if you keep up with minimum care procedures such as washing a rod with freshwater upon returning from a saltwater fishing trip (to remove the traces of salt that can rust metal parts and eat at other areas of the rod) and storing it in a rod holder rather than in the open air of a storage facility. Preventative care is the best way to maintain tackle in good, working order.

The same can be said of all pieces of saltwater tackle. Whatever artificial lures you choose to work with should be washed with freshwater to rid the lures of any salt that remains and stored in an airtight tackle box for safe keeping. Hooks should be treated the same, especially since metal can rust or tarnish in open air and in short order when covered in salt. Saltwater tackle is most quickly ruined by not rinsing the saltwater off the items upon return from the fishing trip. The salt is destructive to your boat, your tackle, any metal objects, and more when left unwashed. This means that any equipment used in a saltwater fishing trip should be carefully washed in order to preserve it more readily for the next trip.

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The very first time I went crabbing I guess I was about 9 years old. Our dad had decided that I was now old enough to go out on the boat with him, my older brothers and one of our neighbors. This was a big day for me and I could not wait for the day to go crabbing. Up to this point I could only rely on hearing stories about it from my brothers. Of course as long as I can remember I was always old enough to enjoy eating them. But, I was about to have a graduation of sorts, and participate in being able to catch them. Crabbing is similar to fishing in that good fishing knives are needed. Me and my brothers all carried pocket knives so this was not a problem. And we all preferred Buck Knives.

The night before we were going to go out we spent a few hours loading up the car with everything needed for the trip. The excitement was incredible. For bait my dad preferred chicken necks, because in water they are oily and greasy which really attracts the crabs. Also the necks are very hard to pull apart by the crabs and therefore last a long time. We all had our Buck Knives type pocket knives and had other types of fishing knives in the tackle box because having a good sharp knife truly was essential. We would have a small fishing boat with an outboard motor reserved in advance and could arrive as early as we chose that day. My dad would like to be on the boat loaded up and ready to go at sun up.

Our method of crabbing was both with a hand line and a couple of small traps. To use a hand line this is where sharp pocket knives are essential. I have been carrying a Buck Knife, pocket knife for as long as I can remember, and for the trip I brought along a nice multiple bladed one. First a piece of rope or cord was cut at the desired length. (Usually 15 feet was plenty long enough.) Next I would take a chicken neck and cut a “slit” in it to allow the rope to go through so that you could tie it. (This is where your sharp pocket knives really comes in handy.)Tie on a sinker to make sure it stays on the bottom and that’s all there is to it.

Each person on the boat has there own “hand line.” Every 5 to 10 minutes you check your line for crabs. By doing this you pull the line up very slowly, hand over hand. (The water is usually not more than 10 feet deep for this method of crabbing.) When the baiting line becomes visible at this point you can see if there is a crab on the line. If you are skilled enough, while holding the hand line with one hand, take a net in you other hand and by going underneath of the bait and crab you scoop up in one motion without alerting the crab. It takes a little skill to get the hang of it. Just lose a few crabs and you will soon see how fast you can learn. If the crab is of a legal size (this varies state-to-state) then just throw it in the bushel. To catch your first crab is as much fun as you could ever have. Soon the day ends and you wonder where the time goes. This is truly a moment where the statement “time flies when your having fun” applies.

This is truly a lot of fun, but guess what? The fun has just begun. Upon arriving home the job of “steaming” the crabs is now at hand. As I was only 9, this job was left up to my dad. However, he insisted that my brothers and I be “helpers” so that we would learn for ourselves. This is also a lot of fun and tricky. (They are actually called crabs for a reason) Never the less I am grateful for this experience because I can “steam” crabs on my own.

After all of the crabs are ’steamed’ every one sits around the table and cleans and eats crabs. I cannot describe to you how good they are. I can only recommend you give it a try. Just remember and take the few “tools” to help get the few jobs done. Pocket knives made by Buck Knives.

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There’s currently a huge trend in carp fishing to camouflage all the rig’s end tackle components, but is it really necessary, is a carp’s vision that good?

I remember when I first started fishing for carp down our local lake, we would use anything available in the tackle box to create our basic carp fishing rigs. There was none of them dung-coloured leads or silt-coloured rig components at all, yet we used to catch carp on a regular basis, so why the need to change now?

Maybe there are other things to consider in the whole outlook here and not only to do with carp’s vision. At a time before the huge explosion in carp fishing popularity, carp may have been able to easily see the odd bits of end-tackle, but because there was less pressure from anglers it didn’t spook them at the time. As time has passed, carp have become wise at the dangers and started to learn that these bits are all part of a dangerous situation, therefore they started to move away as soon as they seen any sight of these regular, suspicious components. As a result, carp fishermen today have had to adapt by learning to cover our end bits in order to continue catching carp.

It’s well known that carp have brilliant eyesight, even better than ours according to some research. Their sight has needed to adapt to the murky, dark waters of the bottom of lakes and ponds, and as a result, they can easily see small items even in low light conditions.

Because carp have such good eyesight, we do need to think about how to cover the main parts of our end tackle before casting in the basic fishing rigs. This is especially true in gin-clear waters, where carp will rely heavily on sight over their other senses. Some will easily spot a loose hook sitting on the bottom of the bed along with the boilies, and may be the reason why we always seem to get more takes when using smaller, lighter hooks, and a higher number of runs using thinner main lines.

Creating Angling Situations Where Carps Good Vision Won’t Affect the Fishing

I think that in some waters which are dark in colour, we may be able to relax and worry less about camouflaging our end-tackle components, but generally it’s a good practice to keep up, it also adds additional skills to our carp fishing methods.

Another time when I believe rig camouflage will be needed less, is when we are able to get the carp feeding confidently, or after creating a carp feeding frenzy. This is a time when all the fish will become pre-occupied with walloping down the food items before their neighbour gets to the food first. Therefore, in fishing situations like this, elaborate camouflaged tackle will not be necessary as much. This does go to explain why some beginners can use really terrible looking fishing rigs can catch some good carp – just like I did when I first started fishing many years ago!

Angling Tactics to Disguise the End Tackle Rig Components

There are some angling tactics that can help cover up your rigs. One is to use a ground bait that causes dark clouds as the fish swim around and feed on it. If you manage to get some fish into the area and feeding confidently, even if it’s nuisance or smaller fish, you’ll stand a better chance that when the carp arrive they won’t see any end tackle parts of the rig and spook away from the area. The huge numbers of fish bodies surrounding them whilst feeding, or the clouds of silt and particle bait causes heavy clouds which hinder a carp’s vision.

Creating fishing situations where carp cannot rely so heavy on sight is another good sign of effective carp angling. Fishing in silt for example, is a good tactic because most carp will just dive into the black stuff and sift around for food items. Having a rig placed inside silt can produce results and make it hard for carp to adapt to this type of fishing tactic. For this reason, I believe targeting the bigger carp in silt is one of the best tactics to use when fishing on very clear lakes!

I always do try my best to cover up any end tackle and try to blend them into the colour of the lake bed. I like to test every rig in the margins and see what shows up easily and then looking for ways to disguise the problem. Once I’m happy with the colours I’ll cast it into the swim hoping to trick a carp into capture. Getting into the practice of covering up your end tackle rig components can result in big rewards for a little extra effort!

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Fly Fishing Tackle is the equipment you need to go fly fishing. You might already have some fishing tackle, or you might be a total beginner, and unsure of what you need.

At the very least you’ll be looking at:

Fishing Rods

These vary in size, price and material. Carbon and bamboo rods are popular and lightweight, so that they can be used all day. Different sorts of rods are suitable for catching different sorts of fish. If you’re not sure of what you need, ask your friends what they are using, do your research online, or ask at your local fishing shop.

Fishing Reels

Reels hold the fishing line, and vary in price and quality. If you fish for trout, you might want a reel that allows you to wind the line and out in by hand. If you fish for salmon, and spend more time in the water, you’ll want a reel that is up to the job. You won’t need the most complicated, feature-rich or expensive reel to start with, and you might find that you don’t need to spend a lot on your fishing reel.

Fishing Lines

Lines vary in length and price. You’ll have some ideas as to what sort of fish you want to catch, and where you’ll be fishing, so you’ll know what sort of lines to look for. You might walready know what brand of line you want, or what your friends use, or whether a floating or sinking line is right for you.  If not, then you should be able to find out online, from your friends or at your local tackle shop.

Flies

Flies, baits and lures are also important, and what you use will depend upon the fish you want to catch, where you are fishing, and the time of year. There are many different sorts of flies to choose from, and it may come down to personal preference, or asking what other people use.  You might even want to tie your own flies.

Waders

Chest high or waist high waders are essential if you are going to spend a lot of time in the water, perhaps if you are catching salmon in rivers. You should look for waders that are warm, and are resistant to rips and tears, so that if you bump into a branch, or snag your waders on a rock or something else in the water, they won’t tear. If you’re new to fishing, then there’s little point in spending your a lot of your budget on waders if you’re unlikely to use them.

Tackle box

A bag or box is another essential for carrying all of your fishing tackle with you. You might be spending all day fishing, and so will need additional food and drinks, as well as all your tackle, so you need to make sure that the bag or box you choose will be big enough.

You might need different sorts of clothing depending on where and when you fish, and what you fish for. If you’re going to be fishing for salmon, and spending all day stood in a river, you’re going to need warm and waterproof clothing with big easy to access pockets, so that you can get what you need even if your hands are wet and cold.

Getting started doesn’t have to be expensive, but having the right equipment from the start will make it easier, and more enjoyable. If you’ve thought about taking up fishing, why not get the fishing tackle you need and go fishing today?

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Coarse fishing is a popular variant of angling that’s popular throughout the UK. Since such a variety of fish species are considered “coarse,” fishermen need to be aware of the habits of the type of fish they’re seeking and match their fishing tackle accordingly. Here’s some general information about how to fine-tune your coarse fishing tackle according to species.

What is Coarse Fishing?

At one time in our country’s history, only the gentry fished for sport. In addition, the freshwater fish species they preferred were salmon and trout exclusively. These “noble” fishermen found other species of fish inferior. Hence, these fish were regarded as “coarse.” Two popular coarse fishing species are bream and chub.

Bream

Bream are bottom feeders found in lakes, canals and slow moving rivers. Bream are shoal fish, so where there’s one, there are bound to be others. For successful bream fishing, choose a fishing rod in the range of 9 to 13 feet. Attach a fixed spool fishing reel to the rod and use a 3 to 6 pound test line. Hook size depends on the bait you’re offering. Hooks numbered 10 through 16 should be used for maggots and worms, while number 6 through 10 hooks are good for bread and large lobs (earthworms). Other baits to use include sweetcorn and brandlings. Brandlings are a subspecies of earthworm found in decaying organic material like compost. Bream can live up to 20 years and typically weigh about 7 pounds, although the British record is 16 pounds, 9 ounces.

Chub

Chub look similar to dace, but the chub’s anal fin is convex. These fish can be found in running water and tend to frequent spots where there are overhanging trees. Chub also frequent ponds and lakes. Use fixed spool fishing reels paired with fishing rods that are 9 to 11 feet long. Line strength should be 3 to 5 pounds. Recommended hooks are numbered 6 through 16. Bait includes maggots, strong cheese, luncheon meat, bread, casters and plugs. Casters are the chrysalis stage of the maggot and plugs are artificial lures that are fish shaped and tremble when pulled through the water. Chub live 10 to 12 years and the British record is 8 pounds, 10 ounces. Typical specimen weight is about 5 pounds.

When a UK angler matches his coarse fishing tackle to the species being sought, the chance of success is greatly increased.

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Great, you have decided that you are going kayaking! Now that you have made the plans, there are some specific accessories that will definitely make yours and your passengers (if applicable) much more enjoyable, safe, and convenient. Some of these items you could already have, some you might not, and some you have-but may be a little older and less reliable. Let us take a quick initial rundown of the list of some important, and more so-crucial, items that will prove invaluable to the kayaker.

For the fisherman kayaker, the gamut of accessories can run long. Rod holders that can mount seamlessly to the kayak are considered indispensable by fishermen. Just imagine, if you will, trying to keep a fishing pole(s) on the kayak whilst not holding it – no easy task! Then you have anchors specifically designed for kayaks, which will obviously hold your craft steady from moving when you have found that perfect spot to cast your pole. A heavy-duty insect repellant is also necessary for a lot of outings when the weather is warmer and more humid, and least, but certainly not last, any self-respecting fisherman is going to have his tackle-box chock full of lures, bait, fishing line, etc. – at his beck-and-call!

More accessories, that are not only ideal for fishing, run the gamut from coolers to carrying-straps to, most obviously, paddles. From a safety standpoint, outrigger kayak floats are used to keep the craft from getting out of control, or even-God forbid-tipping over when rowdy children and not-so-calm waters are in the picture. Life preservers, either worn or stored, should be something taken unconditionally. Drink holders can be an invaluable investment if you are out on the water a lot and take drinks. Spray skirts keep water off of you and out of the kayak, so it is very advisable to buy a quality urethane-coated nylon or polyester material spray skirt. Got a bad back? Please look into a good quality backrest and seat (Google keyword: Kayak backrest), as, while they are generally comfortable, those with back problems are going to need more support without a doubt.

Finally, there comes the most obvious amenity a Kayak needs-Paddles. Yes, there is even a whole short paragraph on them, considering their indispensability. Durable and functional paddles do not have to cost a fortune. Even when considering the pairs under a $100, you can find excellent quality aluminum paddles. The aluminum is for sheer strength and most also have cross-sectional handle-bars for much better handling and feel. Now should you and your party going to the wild rapids, higher quality paddles are almost essential. Usually these will be constructed of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or a mixture of the two. They are also designed to be extendable and retractable, and employ ultra-lightweight said materials while simultaneously providing the most thrust and maneuvering capabilities.

Kayaking can be a simply incredible and unforgettable experience, given that you and your party are well prepared.

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Are you one of those people who find themselves with a tackle box full of lures that are indispensable despite the fact that you never use them?   Do you sometimes buy lures just to have them without thinking about their effectiveness?  Are you amazed by the variety of lures that are on the market today?

If this sounds like you, you have all the makings of a lure collector. Lure collecting is a fun and exciting lifelong hobby. Lure collectors often enjoy amassing large collections of lures and showing them proudly to anyone interested. 

You probably discovered your interest in lure collecting with new lures.  However, in general, serious lure collectors covet older or so-called vintage lures. Vintage lures are fun and interesting conversation pieces. They also provide a view into how the technology of fishing has evolved over the years.  There are many ways to start and expand your ever-growing collection of lures. Many often start with the contents of their tackle box and simply build upon them with increasingly valuable and rare lures.  There are many vintage lure guides available today.  A good lure guide will not only help you identify lures you find at a local garage sale or flea market, they will also help you date the lure by providing era specific hardware information.

Vintage lures are much more accessible now than years ago thanks to the Internet.  The Internet allows collectors to search for what they want and purchase it at competitive prices.  In summary, if you are interested in lures and their histories, you may be interested in lure collecting.  You will find fun and fulfillment through this excellent hobby.  Good luck on your quest for vintage lures!

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So you decided to be a fisherman, or you are or want to be a fisher man, you must have some general knowledge about bait & tackle. I’m going to start off with the tackle part first because it is pointless to try and catch some fish with bait if you have nothing to snatch the fish up with.

Let’s start from the foundation, the fishing rod. There are many types of fishing rods that are used and designed to catch specific fish. For a brief example I’ll start with the light flimsy rods, they are designed to bend a lot, like into a complete “U” shape, and these rods are designed for smaller fish ranging from 0-50 lbs. The larger fishing rods that don’t bend as much, are usually a lot heavier and more durable, they are designed to catch the bigger fish 50 lbs and up. The bigger rods in saltwater fishing are mostly used when trolling fishing, deep-sea bottom fishing, or if your bait on the hook is over a couple of pounds you will want a big rod. For the inshore fisherman or beginner, you shouldn’t have a need for a big rod, unless of course you are on a boat at sea or charter boat etc.

The fishing rod is the foundation, the second part of the fishing rod is the reel. Again there are many types of fishing reels, there are spinning reels, bait castings reels, reverse reels and many more. Most reels that are manufactured today have a “drag” setting. The drag setting decides how much tension is going to be put on the line. For example, if you hook a 50lb fish using 10lb test line, and you don’t have a drag setting the fishes force is going to break the line. With the right amount of drag set though, the fish will not break the line, the fish might run for awhile before you can reel, but eventually the fish is going to get tired and you will be able to reel him in.

Next is the fishing line, fishing line is listed per pound test. Fishing line ranges from 5lb test to well over a hundred. Fishing lines come in many different types of colors, like white, red and blue, other colors of fishing line are there too of course.

The last 3 or so feet of you fishing line, called “the Leader”, should be rated at least twice as high as the fishing line you are using. The leader is what has the hook on it. If you are using 10lb test you should at the very least have a 20lb “leader line”. Leader lines are sometimes metal, which is actually quite often. Lots of bait & tackle shops sell pre-made leader lines to where you can just hook them up to the regular line. Also called “swivels”.

Depending on whether you are fishing on the top of the water or you want to fish the bottom you will need to decide how much weight you want to put on the line. The weight or weight’s, should be positioned right above the leader line in most cases. That way if you are bottom fishing the weight will hit the bottom and the leader with the bait can float freely a couple feet from the bottom.

Next I will talk about “bobbers”, which mostly come in handy when freshwater fishing or saltwater fishing the flats or canals. The bobber is generally positioned right above the leader also, and the bait will not sink due to the flotation of the bobber. Once the bobber is pulled under water, more than likely you have a fish on and need to “set the hook” to nail the fish.

Choosing the right hook is always a must, you will learn better the more that you fish as to what kind of fishing hook you need to choose, and what you are fishing for. If you are trying to catch snook don’t use a huge hook, if you are trying to catch some big shark then raise the size of the hook. The best types of hooks in my opinion are the “circle hooks”. Circle hooks are self setting and have a better percentage of landing fish.

Lures, artificial bait used to trick fish into thinking its live bait. Lures must always be moving to be put to good use, you cast out the line then you reel in at a fast pace. There are thousands of types of lures and since this is a very basic article I am not going too much into detail because that’s a whole different article itself easily.

Tackle Boxes are used to, well, store your tackle. The most common things found in tackle boxes are hooks, weights, lures, artificial worms, swivels, knives and whatever else you can think of to stuff in there.

There are many other types of tackle or fishing gear out there, this was just a very basic guide to the beginner or less experienced fisherman. Other types of bait & tackle I didn’t cover but are very essential are jigs, cast nets, gaffs, chum, bait buckets, spears, nets, live wells, and more. This was just a brief explanation of bait & tackle and I hope you enjoyed this article.

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For those of you who enjoy fishing with live worms, I’ve got some tips and techniques that will help you become a much more successful angler. Many people think of fishing with live worms as simply “threading” a live worm onto a hook, clipping a red & white bobber onto your line, casting this into the water, and calling it good. If this, or some manifestation of this is what you call fishing with live worms, hopefully this article will enlighten you.

Fishing with a live worm, to me, is as much of an art form as fly fishing has ever been described to be. It’s simply that it has to be done properly, and not like was described above. For live worm fishing to be as effective and productive as it can be two main points must be followed. Those two points are: The use of light line and the use of gang hooks.

What do I mean by light line? For me (who fishes primarily in small river and streams) that means four-pound test, but it really has to do with the size of the fish that you’re fishing for. In my opinion, when live worms are being used as bait, eight-pound test is probably the maximum line strength needed. You have to keep in mind that “pound test” means that the line can stand up to that amount of weight at it’s weakest point without breaking. Many anglers simply use fishing line that’s entirely too heavy. I’ve hooked, fought, and landed an eight pound walleye on four pound test, so I know that fishing line is much stronger than people give it credit for.

The second point when fishing with a live worm is to use gang hooks. Gang hooks are the only way to present a live worm in a natural manner, which means outstretched, the way God intended. When fish look at a potential meal, the more realistic and natural it appears, the better. And gang hooks make live worms look exactly like they look without any hooks in them. Don’t you think this would be an advantage to you, the angler? I can tell you from experience that it is an advantage. Begin using pre-tied gang hooks sooner, rather than later when fishing with live worms, and you will catch more fish.

If you fish with live worms, having an effective and efficient way of carrying then with you is important as well. You don’t want to be wasting valuable fishing time searching for you bait when you need to re-bait, which is where a bait bag comes into play. A bait bag is just a small bag that Hangs from your fishing vest or shirt and carries your live worms while you’re fishing This way your live worms are always at your fingertips waiting to be used, rather than in a pocket or tackle box every time you need them. The worms don’t even crawl out. They just sit there, as if waiting to be used. A bait bag is a “must have” item for the serious live worm angler.

These simple, yet extremely effective tips will make you a much more effective live worm angler. Remember fishing with live worms doesn’t have to be the amateurish endeavor that so many people think it is. Not if you don’t want it to be.

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What do in need for trout fishing?

Simple, you need your fishing tackle to enjoy your day.

So what do you need included in your fishing tackle. Well, there are many items you will require to go trout fishing.

First you need your fishing rod. If you are a beginner get a light action rod with a reel combo so you can do a few things with it and without the expense at the beginning.

When you choose a light rod that will cover you for most trout, except if you had a really big one on the line.

Avoid going out and getting the extra light one as that just will be no good for what you need at the beginning.

You will need some lures to put in your tackle box. Try using rooster tails and keep the colours simple, do not go for anything over the top.

Try sticking with white and silver as these are the colours that the baitfish would normally be that trout go for. You will need hooks too, to put your live bait on.

You can use worms or some of the experienced trout anglers actually stick corn on the hook and sometimes cheese and this seems to work for them, so it may be worth putting some in your trout fishing tackle box.

Also get some sinkers and bobbers too. These will help when you are deciding what style of fishing you are doing.

You have also got flies that you can purchase, but again only get a few and do not spend at lot at first.

Try and keep it simple and go for a spider design as they work well.

An obvious one to that you require is your line. Try and choose a mixture of weights depending on the quality of the water. If it is too light you may not get a catch. If it is too heavy the trout will see IT! Yes they can.

Finally do not forget your tackle box to put it all in!

I hope this helps, enjoy your fishing.

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